Work experience Shoot: BOLD LIP

In January 2014 I was able to gain some work experience as a Make-up Artist and Hair Stylist for London based photographer Lenara Choudry for an upcoming magazine shoot. I was able to practise a perfect bold red lip beauty look. I used the techniques that I learnt from Mirijana, using my flat firm brush to achieve perfect curved lines along the lip line. I am really pleased with the final outcome of the make-up and hair in these images and really enjoyed working with an experienced photographer. 

Practise on black skin

Practise on Black skin
images - importance of diversity


if dont get image from betty, turn this post into a makeup artist/hair stylist inspiration page - show their work and why i like it, how it compares to my work

On Shoot Hair Stylist...

I was able to use my plaiting skills that i learnt in my advanced plaiting practical seminar with Lottie to create these braids on the model for a collaboration with Fashion Styling and Fashion Photography students. 
I am really pleased with the hair and the outcome of these images and was happy to be involved. 

Advanced Plaiting

Braid

The braid is very similar to the general French Plait. The only different is that rather than bringing the hair over the plait, instead you have to take it under the plait. This then leaves you wish a plait that is raised above the hair rather than a plait that looks flat against the head.

Waterfall

When creating the waterfall, you have to plait three times, but rather than folding the third piece into the plait, instead let it hang down and take a new piece of hair from above to carry on the plait. Plait twice in between each piece of new hair so it splits it up more than like a French plait. Carry this on till you run out of hair.

You can then also create another waterfall plait below this one using the same techniques, but rather than picking a new piece of hair to filter into the plait, use the pieces which are hanging from the plait above so that the two join together. This is also known as a princess plait.

Advanced plait

Start off by taking a small section of hair down one side of the face and begin to plait a couple of times.

Then filter in hair right from the back of the other side of the head similar to how you create a fish tail plait. Bring this piece of hair in like you would a french plait. Then plait twice, and do the same again. Continue this till you get right to the end.

Primary Research...

(my own images using photoshop place lips etc over top to create own image of lips with background image covering them

(images of lips i have created inspired by this)

drawings/paintings 

Experimenting

During my practical seminar we focused a session based on lips only to perfect our technical skills in the way in which we apply it to create soft but striking lines. I have then used a photo editing programme to add filters to each of my lip images to convert them into something more. 

I really liked this Blue and Silver Metallic lip that I have created on Meg's lips. Being an Andy Warhol lover, I was excited after playing around with some filters to create an art work inspired by Warhol's Popart. I love the way that it has turned out as the colours and metallic shine have created something beautiful. 

Lips

Lip Care is always important if you are going to create a lip design on your model. You need to ensure to care and prime your lips before you add any products. This could be either done by using a lip scrub to rub away any dry chapped skin, or by applying a layer of Vaseline to the lips for 20 minutes while you prime the rest of the face.

• To make the lips look bigger than they really are, use a lip liner that is of a similar colour to the lips. A dark pink tone so that when you draw around the lips it looks the exact colour ensuring that the line doesn't look fake.

• The best way to apply product onto the lip is with a stiff flat thin brush.

• Start from the cupids bow using the thinness and flatness of your lip brush. This brush is perfect for applying make-up to the lips as it gives you a great even application and perfect precision.

• Then go into the lips from the outer corner, drag up the brush from the outer corners to the centre of the lips. By dragging from outer corner to centre, this allows a steady and perfect curved line. This would be harder to create starting from the cupids bow out to the corners.

• Use this same technique with the bottom lip, starting from right in the outer corner, gliding the brush down the the centre of the bottom lip. Then Fill this in and ensure line is perfect and symmetrical to the entire lips.

• To ensure lips are even, hold a hand held mirror right in front of your models lips and stand behind her looking into the small mirror. This will allow you to spot any unevenness that you wouldn't spot in the big mirror in front of you.

Always clean brushes between each model and mix lip mix on back of hand in case model has a cold sore or any other infection/illness. This will stop spreading.

My personal favourite lipstick by Rimmel is Kate Moss's Collection. This is Kate's first Lipstick Collection with a High intensity of pigmented colour which lasts up to an amazing 8 hours! I find it lasts this long when I have applied a lipbalm base first as a lip primer, otherwise it does tend to fade before the 8 hours are up! It has a great creamy texture, its a dream to apply and doesn't go dry, even without a lip balm underneath. This is an amazing product for a cheap £5.49! Another amazing bargain from Rimmel!

Ingredients

Natural Beauty hair

To create a natural beauty hair style, you need to ensure the models hair is clean and shiny before beginning as dirty/greasy looking hair will not give you the same result that you wish for.

• To begin, brush the hair out thoroughly making sure all knots and tangles so that the hair is soft and smooth.

• Then section the hair clipping the top half of hair away, focusing only on around 2 inches of hair the whole way around the bottom.

• Begin to curl this section with curling irons. If your model has long hair then use large curling tongs, if your model has shorter hair use smaller/thinner ones. Carry on with the whole head taking small sections of hair down at a time.

• Always curl the hair towards the face so that once curls are brushed out you get the shape that you are aiming for.

• Once whole head is finished and the curls are completely cooled, brush the hair with a large paddle brush to make the curls look more like a soft wave going through the hair.

• Hairspray finished style.

If I were to retake this image then I would have waited for the curls in the hair to drop slightly more. I then would have brushed out this again so that my models hair would look more waved rather than curled. 

Although this is something that didn't go to plan, I like to see this is a positive as the next time I create this look I will create the look that I want.

MAC & llamasqua Masterclasses

Illamasqua

Illamasqua's Make-up ambassador Charlotte Gabriella came into one of my seminars at Solent to give us a masterclass showing us the Illamsqua's recent Catwalk look for Sorapol London. 

To begin Charlotte prepped and Primed Kristie's face and worked the eyebrows upwards to reshape them using Pears transparent soap and a spatchalar. She has lightened the Eyelashes and quite heavily highlighted the T-section of the face. This is to ensure that this look will beam on the runway. 

Here displays the Sorapol London Fashion show with the make-up that Charlotte demonstrated to us. I think that this look looks amazing with the Sorapol aw14 collection.

MAC

MAC's Senior Make-up artist Cher came to do a masterclass with us to show us one of their Catwalk beauty looks. She demonstrated an exaggerated winged liquid eye liner and a popping pink lip!

She applied glitter to the bottom lip to give the models make-up a sparkle. 

Eyeshadow

When working on Meg's face to practice my eyeshadow technique, I first had to observe what shape eyes she had. I noticed that she had a slight downturn at the outside of her eyes and so I wanted to work with this to transform an uplift to to Megs eye. To do this I have shadowed the eyeshadow above the eyelid crease to make her eyelids look higher. I have also created a neat lifting flick on the outer eyes to create a lift on the outer eyes. 

For this cat eye look in our technical lesson I have experimented using my Aqua Colour palette instead of my powder eyeshadow palettes. Our aim was to create an intense black cat eye on our model, and so I felt that by using my aqua palette I'll be able to get the strong density that I wanted to grasp. I used the 90 degree angle in the inside of the eyes to enhance the length of the eye. 

These images show two looks similar to what I want to create in my smokey eye beauty image. I am aiming to keep this look quite dark rather than colourful as I am focusing my other four images on bright energetic colours.

Eye liners

Another week that Mirijana came back for a 2nd technicle lesson with us, we covered liquid liner and the different approaches that you can take with it. The image to the left is the demonstration that she did on Kristies eyes for the rest of us, and the images below are my try at it. I was really please with the definition and precision in my liners and am glad I was able to learn Mirijana's quick secret techniques to do so.

Liquid Liner/Gel Liner

Liquid eye liner comes in two main types: felt tip and a dip-brush.

Felt tip liquid eye liner is very similar to a marker, and has the eye liner fed through it like a pen.

A dip-brush liquid eye liner is similar to nail polish in that it comes with a small bottle of the eye liner with a brush that must be dipped in in between each application. 

Gel Liner is applied with a thin angled brush like the dip-brush liquid liner

• Prepare your eyelids. Applying eye liner is a middle step to be done after you put on your eye shadow but before you put on your mascara. Put on an eyelid primer to help your eye shadow and/or eye liner stick to your lid for the whole day. If you plan on wearing eye shadow, apply it now and your eye liner will go over the top.

• Get in the right position. The biggest problem with applying liquid eye liner is lacking a steady hand, causing a wavy line and uneven application. To rectify this problem, rest your elbow on a table and your hand on your cheek as you apply.

• If you are able, hold a small hand-held mirror in your opposite hand instead of using a large mirror so that you can get a good view of your eyelid and liner application.

• Add your tail. Regardless of the type of eye liner that you use, a small tail should be created at the outer edge of your eyelid to give the illusion of a continuation of your lash line. Use your eye liner to draw a small line extending upwards on your upper lash line, but drawn at the same angle as the upwards curve in your lower lash line. Draw a small triangle from the end of the line with the upper lash line and fill in the space.

• You can stop it early for a natural look, or sweep it far up your lid for a classic cat eye.

• Finish your make up. With the completion of your eye liner, apply your mascara and any other finishing touches to your make up. Use a large, full-bristled brush to wipe off any shadow or eye liner that might have fallen underneath your eyes. Use a q-tip dipped in make up remover to remove any mistakes you made in your eye liner or mascara application.

I really like this campaign shoot of Georgia May Jagger and Rimmel's Scandalleyes Mascara. The way in which the Make-up Artist has incorporated the dramatic precise eyeliner on the top lash line following up into the crease. 

For one of my final images I am aiming to design a face chart inspired by this image. I am also able to use the knowledge in which I gained on the Westfields trip at our MAC masterclass. 

I feel inspired by these images above as they all have their own unique shape and angles which i really like from an eye liner look. For my final eyeliner make-up design I want to create something more than just a plain sweep, I want to encorporate bright colours to relate back to Rimmel, but I also want it to still look like a beauty image rather than a create make-up piece. 

Eye shapes

Above are images displaying 6 different eye shapes that everyone has. To be an amazing make-up artist, you need to ensure that you have your eye shape knowledge grasped as this will either make you or break you. Having to work on a new clients face every day may sound completely over whelming, although once you have technical knowledge, the rest is all just a walk in the park. 

It is really important to know what needs to be done to your models face in order to make them look their best, and so simple charts like this can be SO much help to get that kick start in the right direction. This chart has helped me a lot when practicing in class, on my friends and when applying make-up on a shoot. 

Colour theory

There are three primary colours, Yellow, Red and Blue. These three colours can each be mixed together to create many other colours, depending on the ratio that you add. These are colours that cannot be created through the mixing of other colours. They are colours in their own right.

The Secondary Primary Colours are Orange, Purple and Green which the colour chart shows below. 

YELLOW + BLUE = GREEN BLUE + RED = PURPLE RED + YELLOW = ORANGE
An important rule of the colour wheel is that colours opposite to each other on the colour wheel usually work well together as a colour scheme. These are known as COMPLEMENTARY COLOURS.

Tertiary colors are combinations of primary and secondary colours.

There are six tertiary colors; red-orange, yellow-orange, yellow-green, blue-green, blue-violet, and red-violet.

An easy way to remember these names is to place the primary name before the other colour. So the tertiary colour produced when mixing the primary colour blue with the secondary colour green, is called 'blue-green'.

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ROYAL BLUE

Make a PDF

Take the Base Color you have been given and find images of 5 shades with the same undertone in going in either direction (lighter and darker.)

The 11 images can be of anything.

Put them in order and Name the Colors.

Only one image can be from a paint chart.

Reference

The Pantone Color Chart.

Paint Color Charts.

Artist Paint Color Charts for Names

Make Up Brands for Names

Food, Flowers etc for Names

Colour theory - create colour charts that Im interested in - what works well together

Eyelashes

Mascara

• First before applying ensure eyes are completely clean with no old make-up anywhere. If there is this will make the end result on camera look messy and smudgy.
• Always begin by curling the lashes with eyelash curlers to ensure we have the best shape to work with when applying the mascara.
• Never double dip wand back into the mascara once it has touched the models face. This could cause spreading of disease or infection.
• Always start brushing on mascara from the top of the lashes focusing deep into the root at the eyelid. If you don't get the mascara right into the roots this will pick up on camera and look unfinished. Then apply to the underneath lashes curling gently as you apply to make the lashes longer and more separated.
• Can then also use a clean mascara wand over the mascara to separate lashes further for a more natural look.

Fake Lashes:

• Before applying lashes ensure mascara and liquid eye-liner is clean and sharp ready for eyelash application.
• Then place eyelashes onto eyelid to get an idea of shape and length, trimming lashes if need be.
• Once lashes are perfect shape, apply a thin layer of MAC Duo adhesive to the lashes and wait 30 seconds for the glue to go tacky. Once glue is tacky gently press lashes close to lash line and hold down until completely dry.

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Ads featuring Jagger and Moss were banned from British magazines and television after the Advertising Standards Authority found them to be misleading. The ads used false lashes.

This mascara is one of my favourites from Rimmels collection as it seems to give the best results for thicker and fuller lashes. I personally have quite short lashes and sadly not very many of them! So I need to ensure every mascara that I use can give me that full volume effect that they really need!

At a great high street price of only £6.99 this product is affordable and wearable for anyone!

Brows

create face chart of pastle blue brows and lashes

Even if your goal is to add some volume to skimpy brows, you want to make sure you start with a nice shape and preferably with two brows that are shaped the same. Symmetry is key when it comes to brow-shaping. You can clean up your brows at home using tweezers. This will give you a nice shape to follow. If your natural shape doesn’t give you enough to work with, you can also purchase brow stencils that will help you achieve near perfect symmetry when it’s time to fill them in with make-up.

• Firstly to begin, use a pencil to mark out where you want the brows to be. Hold this in these places shows in the image to mark out where the main points of the brow should be.
• Apply a light concealer directly above and below the eyebrows. Using something a couple shades lighter than natural skin tone to create a nice highlight and makes brows look extra polished.
• Then  use either a brow pencil or a thin angled brush and eyebrow/eye-shadow make-up to fill in the gaps of the eyebrows. Using a slightly darker colour will make the brows more dramatic and lighter shades will look more natural for daytime brows.
• Once brows are filled in dust translucent finishing powder over the top to blend and set the concealer and to make the eyebrow hairs look more natural. 

Timeline Of Brows

  

                                    1920s                                                             1930s                            

                          1940's/50s

             

                                                                                                                                                  1960s  

                                1980s

1970s

                                      1990s                                                 2000s

 1920s brow - thin line

 1930s brow – similar to 1920s but with arch

 1940 & 50s brow - arched but dark, thick and defined

 1960s – similar to 40/50s but more subtle

 1970s – natural brow 

 1980s – Big hair, Big Brows: Dark and thick

 1990's – modern day: waxed/threaded 'perfect' brows

                                                

This was a dramatic brow that Mirijana created on me as a demonstration to my practical seminar. She has created a sharp edge to the bottom line of the brow which really gives it the face that exaggerated look.